chic style

The fourth day of Milan Fashion Week belonged to ex-Pucci designer Peter Dundas, who made his celebrated debut as creative director for Roberto Cavalli.

But he wasn’t the only one getting his day in the sun: Young designer Daizy Shely made her Milan runway debut on Saturday, showing her womenswear collection for next spring and summer in Giorgio Armani’s theatre.

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The focus of the day was on youth, freedom and renewal.

Dundas sought to underline a sense of ease and freedom in his much-celebrated debut collection for Roberto Cavalli.

Dundas had the delicate task of reviving a brand that was widely viewed as past its prime and paying due homage to the brand’s founder, who hand-picked Dundas and remains an important stakeholder in the fashion house bearing his name.

“I wanted to accentuate the ease and the freedom that the brand represents to me,” Dundas said backstage.

A 1980s vibe grounded the collection and kept it close to the Cavalli roots: denim, rock ‘n’ roll sequin jackets and billowing chiffon skirt trains, with just a splash of animal print for old-time’s sake.

Dundas put a fresh emphasis on daywear, staying away from more glammed-up evening wear that the designer says seems less youthful than the looks he was after. Also for night, a long suede dress hugged the curves, where it was fastened by skin-revealing buckles.

Denim was central to the debut collection. The high-waisted washed-out jeans and matching cropped jacket — immediately recognisable to anyone who lived through the ‘80s — was a bold move. There also were tough-looking stonewashed denim biker jacket vests and a pretty-in-pink belted denim minidress. Shoes included sweet suede bootees with bows or double-buckles.

In a twist, sequins and fringe were deployed on day, not evening wear, worn with a silvery zebra-striped pant. Long chiffon open-front dresses, fastened with big bows over miniskirts, were meant for the night. The billowing chiffon train was vintage Cavalli.

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